- Steve
Chandler
When
I am fully engaged, putting my heart and soul into something, fear is replaced
by the RUSH of pure excitement.
A
recent WIRED magazine article sent to me by TV producer John Jones said this:
"Surfer Garrett McNamara felt many things as the monster wave approached.
Excitement. Awe. Joy. The one thing he did not feel, however, is fear."
That
might seem unusual, given that he was about to ride what is believed to have
been a 100-foot wave on Monday. But there was no place in his heart, or mind,
for such things. He was focused utterly on the moment.
"If you have fear then it means that you are not living in
the moment", McNamara told Wired by e-mail from Nazaré,
Portugal. "You are
either stuck in the past or worrying about the future. It is important to not
think and just do! Follow your heart and fear does not exist."
McNamara is believed to have set a new record for the biggest wave
ever ridden by a surfer.
Regards,
Rick
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